Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Bucatini All'Amatriciana


After that last post on how pecorino cheese is made, it didn't seem fair to leave you without a recipe, and I couldn't think of any recipe more associated with pecorino cheese than this pasta dish.  The recipe is frought with controversy - Romans claim it as their own (it's on the menu of nearly all Roman eateries), but it originated in Amatrice, a town that was once in Abruzzo, but that was annexed in 1927 to the region of Lazio, where Rome is located.

Romans prefer to add onions to the sauce, something that's heresy in Amatrice. Some recipes call for pancetta, but purists will use only guanciale (pork jowls).  Because the ingredients are so few, each one makes a crucial contribution to the flavor. Pancetta has less fat than guanciale and comes from the midsection of the pig (pancia means belly), while guanciale comes from the cheeks (guancia means cheek). The flavor from the fat that's rendered becomes an integral part of the dish, and while pancetta fat is good, guanciale fat is better. That said, if you live in an area where guanciale is impossible to find, I'll give you a perdonanza for using pancetta.



By the way, you'll also see pasta "alla gricia" on nearly every Roman menu too. It's the same recipe as pasta "all'amatriciana" but without the tomatoes.
The traditional pasta used is bucatini - a thick pasta so named because of the hole (buco) down the center of each strand. But it's also not unusual to see the dish served with rigatoni, paccheri or penne either.



One thing you should not substitute however, is the cheese you grate on top. It HAS to be pecorino cheese, not parmigiano, not grana padano. Years ago, I ordered this dish in one of the hill towns outside of Rome, but asked the waiter to bring me parmigiano instead of the pecorino I later learned was the classic topping. Big mistake. "Parmigiano?" the waiter said incredulously to my request, as if I'd just asked him to dance naked in the Roman Forum.  "Sei sicura che vuoi parmigiano?" he asked. "Yes, I'm sure I want parmigiano," I replied. And the service went downhill from there. Something about "When in Rome...." came to mind at that point and from then on, I have always ordered bucatini all'amatriciana with pecorino.

 So please, take liberties and use onions if you like, switch up the fat and buy pancetta if you must, go non-traditional and cook up conchiglie pasta if need be, but don't sprinkle anything but real pecorino on top!


 Bucatini All'Amatriciana

printable recipe here 

Serves four to six, depending on appetites.

1/4 pound of guanciale, cut into lardons
1 28-ounce can tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
1/4 tsp. (or more if you like) red pepper flakes
abundant pecorino cheese, grated

1 pound bucatini pasta

Place the lardons of guanciale in a saucepan on medium heat and slowly let the fat render. The lardons should not crisp up, but should remain a little chewy. Remove the lardons with a slotted spoon, and add the tomatoes, breaking up with your hands or with a spoon. Put the lardons back in, add the red pepper flakes and cook together with the tomatoes, on a low simmer, for about 1/2 hour.

Meantime, when the sauce has cooked about 15 minutes, get the water boiling and throw in the pasta. Bucatini takes a while to cook, depending on the brand. Cook until a little firmer than al dente, then drain the pasta with a slotted spoon or fork and place into the pan with the sauce. Don't worry if a little pasta water makes its way into the sauce. Finish cooking the pasta in the sauce for the last couple of minutes. Serve immediately while it's hot, with ample pecorino cheese grated on top.




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Bucatini

24 comments:

Stacey Snacks said...

I loved learning that "buco" means hole! Love this simple pasta dish with or without the onions.

christo AKA doggybloggy said...

I love these big ol' spaghetti tubes and they way you prepared everything is so mouth watering...

Rosa's Yummy Yums said...

Extremely scrumptious! A great dish. Perfect in its simplicity.

Cheers,

Rosa

FOODalogue said...

Pecorino, not parmigiano...interesting. I can't say I really 'get it'. Guess I'll have to make a taste test. Beautiful photos.

KC Quaretti said...

This is my first vist here and I'm so happy I found you! My husband is from La Spezia, we lived just accross the the French/Italian boarder in Valbonne for many years so it was with great delight I read your wonderful Pecorino Post! I'll be back often and will follow your blog!
Thanks, KC
KCintheKitchen

black eyed susans kitchen said...

Thanks for sharing this story Linda...I can just picture the waiter questioning you. Interesting recipe too. I think I need to have a cheese tasting so I can discern why one would work better than the other.
Susan

Proud Italian Cook said...

I love slurping up bucatini, especially the plate you have there! Great photos Linda, you're making me hungry this morning, toast is not going to cut it!

mom in rome said...

These are my favorite!!! together with carbonara !! love it!!!

:)

Chiara said...

Una ricetta veramente italiana, complimenti Linda!Un abbraccio...

Mister Meatball said...

One of the all-time best pasta dishes, yes.

It does take skill to make well, however. And you seem to have acquired it.

Va bene!

PolaM said...

Perfection on a plate! Love amatrician sooo much!

Cathy at Wives with Knives said...

Wow, great photos, Linda. The one of the pasta is dynamite! I love recipes like this - simple and every ingredient is important to the dish.

Peter M said...

Here-here for being snooty on cheeses...its the little things that make the difference. I prefer grated pecorino on my pasta and in Greek dishes, this bucantini shape is very popular.

Ellie said...

I love the word lardons :) This looks fantastic.

Daniela said...

Favolosi questi bucatini!
un abbraccio Daniela.

Claudia said...

Pecorino it is. And it will be on my table when we dip below 100 degrees F! The photos beg, "Make me!" The kitchen says, "Don't turn on the stove!" I love the simplicity of this - let quality shine.

Joanne said...

This is one of the few pasta dishes that I can get my family to agree to love!

Karen (Back Road Journal) said...

Thank you for the recipe, it's one of my favorites. I love bucatini but don't order it out often. The little hole in the pasta seems to throw a bit of sauce when twirling and usually leaves a spot on whatever I'm wearing.

The Food Hunter said...

One of my favorites.

A Feast for the Eyes said...

I love bucatini, but find it very hard to locate. I never knew the true meaning of pancetta either. I learn so much from you! I love the simplicity of this dish. Sadly, I can't get past the flavor of sheep's milk so I struggle with Pecorino. I won't give up, though. Maybe this dish would change my mind. If not, well I can always use blasphemous Parmesan, right?

Pat @ Mille Fiori Favoriti said...

This looks absolutely delicious!

I always prefer Pecorino Romano cheese over all other cheeses :) I prefer its salty sharp flavor. Your

My husband loves to use bucatini pasta with a plain butter and ricotta sauce. It's a family favorite.

marifra79 said...

Splendido piatto... un abbraccio e buonissima serata

Jen_from_NJ said...

The first cool evening I will be sure to make this wonderful pasta! I just need to hunt down the guanciale!

Jersey Girl Cooks said...

Love this simple pasta dish!